Philly roast pork at Stein's (with assorted notes)

When I visited my sister in Philadelphia last December, I was only there for a weekend. While I pounded down no fewer than three cheese steaks*, I missed out on at least three local delicacies: Tastykakes**, scrapple*** and the Philly roast pork sandwich.

Today, I went to Stein's Market and Deli for lunch and the special was a roast pork and broccoli rabe sandwich. I had to have it. Three hours later, I'm still digesting it. Stein's patrons know that even though the sandwiches only come with a couple of pickle spears**** on the side, they're still big enough to share. But magically, every time I go, I eat the whole thing and pay for it later. It's tragic, really.

Today's pork was fall-apart tender shoulder. The broccoli rabe, which looks like spinach, adds just enough smoky bitterness to complement the pork's natural sweetness and a layer of melted cheese (Swiss, I think) gives it a salty richness. The doughy cibatta roll it's served on initially looks too fluffy. Why would you want that much bread? But I soon learned this is desirable because you want a bread that can soak up the pork juices. It's also a sourdough bread which completes the profile and gives us sour, salty, sweet and bitter in every bite.

My companion had The Sam, which is like a Reuben but with pastrami and coleslaw. I've had Stein's pastrami before and it's marvelous. Marrying the brisket's creamy fat with the spices' saltiness, it becomes the beef equivalent of bacon. Pairing it with sweet coleslaw and tangy Russian dressing might make it messy, but dear God, what wonder!

One day, I'll have the guts to order the tongue sandwich. I bet it's incredible. But today wasn't the day and the menu is pretty impressive.*****

Stein's is kind of pricy and sandwiches are nearly $10. Which calls this to mind.

*Cheese steaks. Yes, I went to Pat's. Yes, I went to Geno's. I went somewhere forgettable first. Don't ask where. Like I said, it was forgettable. That means I forgot, OK? So where do I come down on the Pat/Geno divide? It will hurt to write this, but Geno's was slightly - slightly - better. But the grotesque pseudo-patriotic signs in the window insisting THIS IS AMERICA, SPEAK ENGLISH1!!!, make me want to never go back there. Yes, Mr. Geno, I know where I am. You don't have to yell at me.

If you're from Philly and are going to tell me I missed out on your favorite steak joint, put it in comments. I'm going back in May.

**My sister mailed me a box of Tastykakes earlier this week. What flavor, you ask? Why, butterscotch krimpets, of course. Ahh butterscotch, king of flavors. Stein's also sells Tastykakes. In fact, they have a sign on the door advertising this.

Philly folk are kind of embarrassed about their association with low-brow snack cakes. And they're really just snack cakes. I love that my sister sent me a box, but they're hardly transcendent.

***I still haven't had scrapple, but from what I gather, it's pretty much Amish hogshead cheese, with lots of offal, especially from the head. And that means brain and face. And that means if I didn't know what it was, I'm sure I'd enjoy it. But for now, I'm kind of afraid of it.

****Stein's tosses a couple of pickle spears in with their sandwiches. You get a half-sour and a full-sour spear. The full-sour is a pickle. You've had them before. But the first and only half-sour I ever had came from Stein's. It's halfway between pickle and cucumber. How novel!

*****Today, I noticed that the menu indicated one of it's sandwiches - turkey, avocado, etc. - needs a name. I mentioned to the guy taking my order that in Santa Fe, where that sandwich, is ubiquitous, was named the Alice B. Toklas at Carlos' Gospel Cafe******. Same sandwich, but veggified, sans turkey, was the Gertrude Stein. Counter guy seemed to enjoy this.

******Carlos' is defunct last time I checked, but I still copy their Miles Standish at home. It's turkey with cranberry relish, cream cheese and a lettuce leaf. Note: must be cranberry relish. You can buy this at grocery stores. Don't try using cranberry mustard. I haven't had one of these in a while. I'll have to make one soon.